The vast networks of the Silk Road not only facilitated the exchange of goods across China, Central Asia, the Middle East and Europe but it also encouraged the spread of cultures, ideas and religions that effectively shaped the world as we know it today. Traversed by merchants, and empires nearly 2,000 years ago, travellers to this region can still expect to find architectural marvels, bustling bazaars, ancient cities and traditions that have stood the test of time. Join journalist Matt Quinton, as he shares his highlights from his recent trip along The Silk Road.
“Taking in the vast landscapes of Kyrgyzstan, the stylish cities of Kazakhstan, and the fabulous historical monuments of Uzbekistan, this feels very much like three trips in one.
My expedition starts in remote Kyrgyzstan, where much of the population only relatively recently stopped living nomadically. The scenery of the steppes really is breathtaking, with huge plains stretching out to the horizon, rimmed with towering mountains. It’s not hard to envisage Genghis Khan and his horde sweeping over the hilltops – as indeed he once did, before adding these lands to his mighty empire. Everywhere I travel here, I feel like I’m heading into the unknown territory of the ‘Wild East’. Fortunately, my group of 15 are expertly led by our local guide, Vitaly.
Before getting off the beaten track, we start with a city tour in the capital of Bishkek. I’ll admit I wasn’t completely up to speed with Kyrgyzstan’s past as one of the 15 Soviet Republics, but as Vitaly patiently fills in the blanks at the foot of one of the country’s many statues of Russian revolutionary Vladimir Lenin, it starts to come to life. And when he points out the bullet holes still in evidence at Government buildings, the country’s tricky transition to democracy in recent decades suddenly feels very real and very current.
Bidding farewell to urban life for a while, we boarded a minibus next to see some of the country’s natural wonders, gently hiking through the countryside to eat lunch at the foot of a powerful waterfall and bobbing buoyantly as we cool off in a salt lake.
In the remote Djety Oguz mountains we spend a night in a traditional Kyrgyz yurt, admiring the stars which are almost overwhelmingly bright. We enjoy our evening meal in the communal eating yurt, seated on the floor as we tuck in at the traditional low tables. With the lights dim, Vitaly tells us how for centuries the Kyrgyz made their homes on these slopes, and still do today in smaller numbers. This whole evening is a real one-off experience and when it comes to an end, I bury myself in a mound of blankets and fall asleep peacefully while listening to the horses whickering and the sounds of the river. In the morning, we are offered the chance to ride one of those horses in the gorgeous mountain setting, and then enjoy a leisurely downhill walk into the valley below, with those huge peaks gradually rising around us as we descend.
But my absolute trip highlight is watching a demonstration of how the nomadic peoples still use eagles to hunt. My group stand on the side of the mountain, mouths agape, while the hunter sits at the peak on his horse, with Golden Eagle ‘Kara-Barachyn’ perched on his wrist. She surveys the territory before swooping down, huge wings spread, and spearing the lure at our feet with her huge talons. It’s an amazing sight to see with your own eyes – and after we’re given the chance to get our own pictures astride the horse with the eagle on our arm.
Another Central Asian must-try is the traditional nomadic tipple, fermented mare’s milk. Strong as lager, this is like a boozy Yakult – I quickly start to enjoy it, though it’s fair to say not many members of the group get as much out of it as they did the lamb. Kyrgyzstan doesn’t get a huge amount of tourism, so the sight of half a dozen Westerners in the central market struggling through their glasses of mare’s milk is enough to make us briefly the talk of the town!
We move on to Kazakhstan’s former capital Almaty, home to fabulous restaurants and dazzling architecture including colourful Zhenkov Cathedral. We’re lucky enough to arrive during a bellringing class – and Vitaly convinces them to let us have a go! It’s a unique experience, though it does make it a little tricky for me to hear the rest of that day’s city tour.
Boarding a sleeper train, some of which have been in use since the Soviet era, I cross the border into Uzbekistan next, glimpsing through the window of vast deserts slipping by. The journey is a long one – Kazakhstan alone is bigger than Western Europe. But it’s well worth making, most of all for the 2,500-year-old city of Samarkand. The towering madrassas of Registan Square are absolutely dazzling, with blue and yellow tiles which sparkle in the light at dusk. Each building is architecturally different, but the matching colour scheme means together they create an almost overwhelming impression of collective size and scale – this is where I get some of my best holiday snaps.
After dark, Samarkand is a great place to pick up souvenirs in souk marketplaces like Siab Bazaar – including, of course, some wonderful silks. In Soviet times, Uzbekistan supplied the entire USSR with cotton – a fact brought to life by a story from Dilshod, our guide for this section of the trip. He explains how as a boy he and his classmates were pulled out of education to work on the state cotton plantations. We sit spellbound, and it’s a reminder that not all the fascinating history of this region took place centuries ago.
Even for the most seasoned travellers, this feels like a truly exotic expedition and English is seldom widely spoken. As a result, your Exodus guide – drawing on local knowledge, is absolutely invaluable. And with so much to see, handing over control of the itinerary to the experts is the only way you can experience this much in a single fortnight.
You’ll be sad to head home. But you’ll have memories you’ll never forget. And possibly a real taste for hunting with eagles.”
If Matt’s experience along the Silk Road has encouraged you to explore Central Asia for yourself, take a look at our Silk Road adventure, or browse our other trips in the region here.
